Hat lining



.Fun a, 2924. 1,496,285

- M.. ARQND HAT mums 7 Filed Dec. 1;, 1920 11v VENTOR MICHAEL AROND, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

HAT LINING.

Application filed December 13, 1920, Serial No. 430,179.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that MICHAEL ARoND, citizen of the United States, and resident of the city of New York, in the county of Kings and State of New York, has invented certain new and useful Improvements in Hat Linings, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to hat linings. More particularly, the invention is directed to linings for ladies hats. One object thereof is to provide a construction of hat lining of this type and a method or process for making the same which shall considerably cheapen the cost of manufacture by affording an increased rate of production with employment of less skilled labor, and insure perfection of the finished product both as to neatness of appearance and strength and durability with a minimum requirement of skill and care of the'operative.

Another object is to provide a hat lining and a method for making the same which shall permit automatic guidance of the crown piece, and also provide against the liability of the latter not being stitched'at all points of its periphery to the side piece, as the crown pieceis passed through the sewing machine to be stitched to the side piece.

A further object is to provide a hat lining of the type described and a .method for making the same which shall be free from liability of the material of the crown piecebeing caught into the shuttle race of the sewing machine.

Other objects of this invention will be in a part obvious and in part hereinafter pointed embodiments of this invention,

Fig. 1 is a partial perspective view of a portion of the crown member with the elements composing the same shown partly in cross-section to show the construction of the crown and the first step in the making of the hat lining;

Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig. 1 showing the side piece secured to the crown as produced by the first step in the operation, and showing thesecond step in the making of the hat lining;

Fig. 3 is an elevational view showing the appearance of the hat lining when completed and in the position it takes when placed inside of the hat frame;

Fig. 4 is a modified form showing another manner of attaching the side piece to the crown member; and

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the presser foot on a sewing machine used in securing the side piece to the crown. This presser foot forms no part of this invention and the figure is added merely for the purpose of aiding the disclosure.

Referring in detail to the drawing, in which is shown an embodiment of my invention, the crown piece is seen to be constructed as follows; A suitably shaped piece of lining material 10 such as silk or satin, and a similar piece ofstiflening material such as buo'kram or crinoline 11 and a stiffening cord 12 are all united together in one operation, preferably by stitching 13 passing through all'the elements. As will be clear from Fig. 1, the stitches are taken as nearly as practicable to the lower portion of the cord so that the portion 13 of the stitches 13 passing through the cord intercepts a very small segment of the circular cross-section of the stiffening member. The cord employed is preferably of the type having a core on which is wound a'covering of thread or other material, and in addition to its use as a stiffening member serves as a guiding member in the subsequent operation now to be described;

As a result of the first operation, the

after the first step is completed as described, there results a crown piece with a body portion bounded by the cord of regular and by stitches passing through the side piece 14 and the cord and the two layers 10 and 11. This line of stitches 15 is taken so that the portion 15 thereof passing through the stiffening member is as near as practicable to the stitches 18 already passed through the cord in the forming of the crown piece, so that when the parts of the lining are all secured together in the manner herein described, very nearly all of the cord in its full rotundity is exposed in the finished lining and the stitches 13 and 15 completely hidden from view.

In the modified form shown in Fig. 4, the side piece is directly secured to the crown piece by a line of stitches 16 passing just above the cord but not through the same.

A dominant feature of this invention is that the crown piece as completed ready for stitching the side piece thereto has the stiffening cord already in place thereon. in the first step of the operation, as the layers ofthe crown piece are fed to the sewing machine, the needle in stitching these layers together also passes through the stiffening cord which is being attached at the same time. The stiffness and friction of this stiffening cord enables the parts being stitched together to be advanced through the machine without liability of the layers of material being caught in the shuttle race of the machinean occurrence which is quite frequent where the layers of material are secured together in one operation without the stiffening cord. Furthermore, the cord affixed to the crown piece in the first step in. the operation serves as a guide member for automatically guiding the crown piece through the sewing machine so as to properly stitch the side piece to the crown piece. in the manner now to be explained.

The stitches 15 in the second step of the operation are put in with the aid of a specially constructed presser-foot or gauge 17 such as shown in Fig. 5. This presser footis provided on its under side with a groove 18 adapted to receive the stiffening member or cord so that when the crown piece is placed on a sewing machinein position to have the side piece stitched thereto in the manner already described, the cord rests in the groove and as the stitches 15 are produced by the machine, the crown piece is guided around for its full periphery through this groove by the already attaclied cord. 1 have found that hardly any manual assistance is required for feeding the crown piece through the machine in order that the side piece may be attached along its full periphery, the friction of the cord passing through the groove providing automatic means for accomplishing this result while the machine is in operation.

i Vhere the two layers of the crown piece are first stitched together by one seam and then the cord and side piece secured to the crown piece by another scam, the operative must be depended upon entirely to so guide the crown piece through the machine which attaches the side piece and cord as to stitch the latter to the crown piece within the first line of stitches already thereon, and at the same time take up as little as possible of the surface of the crown body. This requires considerable skill and care, and where quantity production is required at a comparatively high speed of operation, the first line of stitches may be in part exposed to view on the crown of the finished lining, thus making the latter unsightly. Further, in attempting to attach the cord as nearly as possible to the periphery of the crown, the operative, in manually guiding and turn ing the assembled layers of crown piece through the machine at times approaches it an insufficient amount to be caught by the needle. As a result, the side piece and cord are attached at some points to each other only and the crown piece left unattached at these points, thus leaving air spaces in the finished lining. This difiiculty is completely obviated by the automatic guidance of the stifiening cord already in place on the crown piece made according to the present invention.

It will thus be seen that there is provided a hat lining in which the several objects of this invention are achieved and which, is well adapted to meet the conditions of practical use.

As various possible embodiments might be made of the above invention and as various changes might be made in the embodiment above set forth, it is to be understood that all matter herein set forth or shown in the accompanying drawings is to be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent 1. In a hat lining of the character described, a crown piece comprised of a suitably shaped inner layer of material, a similar outer layer of material, and a stiffening member disposed along the peripher' of.

said inner layer, securing means for said stiffening member comprising a line of stitches passing through said stiffening member and said layers of the crown piece, a side piece, and means for securing the latter to the crown piece, said meanscomprising another line of stitches passing through said side piece, the said stifiening member and said inner and outer layers of material, and closely adjacent the first mentioned row of stitches.

2. The method of making a hat lining consisting in first forming the shaped layers of the crown piece and securing said layers together and to a stiffening cord by stitches passing through said cord, and then securing the side piece to the crown piece by an- 10 other line of stitches passing through said stifiening cord and the layers of the crown piece closely adjacent said first mentioned stitches.

Signed at New York city, in the county 15 of New York and State of New York this 8th day of December A. D. 1920.

MICHAEL AROND. 

